Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

A few weeks ago I spent half a day at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore east of Munising, Michigan. At over 71,000 acres, this long stretch of land on the south shore of Lake Superior harbors a wide variety of natural features. Rivers, lakes, waterfalls, meadows, sand dunes, and forests filled with a variety of northwoods vegetation cover the area. The best-known features, however, are the spectacularly-colored sandstone cliffs. My first stop here was at Miners Castle:

Miners Castle photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

The exposed sediments were deposited intermittently from about 800 million to 480 million years ago, from the late Precambrian through the early Ordovician Period. During that time this area was situated near the equator, bordering a shallow sea. Erosion worked away at nearby mountains, and streams carried sand and gravel to the ocean here. The different rock beds are the result of shifting depositional environments over time. Dunes, shores, riverbeds, deltas, and stream channels are all preserved in the rocks. Each environment deposited different sediments containing different minerals, leading to the multi-colored bedding.

View east of Miners Castle, photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Over time these beds were subsequently buried by younger sediment, only to be exposed again by uplift and erosion. In the last few hundred thousand years, repeated glaciation sculpted the surface here. As the glaciers retreated and melted, they left behind the crystal-clear lakes and colorful cliffs along the shores.

View near Miners Castle, photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

While the views near Miners Castle were great, I heard the Chapel Rock area was even better. I headed out on the eight mile round-trip hike which lead me through a stretch of scenic northwoods. Before I left a ranger warned me about falling American beech trees (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae). Apparently they’ve been decimated by a fungus and an insect, and in the high wind that day they were likely to come crashing down. Sure enough I did see many on the ground, and even saw one fall not far in front of me. Every time I heard one creak in the wind I’d glance up, uneasy, to make sure it wasn’t going to fall on me.

Injured American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Amid the howling wind in the trees I could still hear the scurrying of this eastern chipmunk (Tamias striatus, Sciuridae):

Eastern chipmunk (Tamias striatus, Sciuridae) near Chapel Falls. Photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Insects were also common on this warm, sunny day:

Unknown beetle (Coleoptera) near Chapel Falls. Photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

About halfway to Chapel Rock I came across Chapel Falls, which provided a serene spot to rest for a few minutes:

Chapel Falls photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Further down the trail I kept coming across mountain maples (Acer spicatum, Aceraceae). These shrubby trees only occur in the northern reaches of North America and some parts of the Appalachians. I had never seen one before:

Mountain maple (Acer spicatum, Aceraceae) photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Paper birch (Betula papyrifera, Betulaceae) was another common northwoods tree:

Paper birch (Betula papyrifera, Betulaceae) photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Before long I arrived at Chapel Rock. The intricately-carved sandstone was pretty impressive:

Chapel Rock photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Here I was also able to get up close to the worn cliff faces:

View near Chapel Rock. Photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

The striking cliffs abruptly transitioned into the white sand of Chapel Beach along Lake Superior:

East end of Chapel Beach. Photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

Chapel Beach and Chapel Rock. Photographed 05/24/2012 at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan.

The tall cliffs of Grand Portal Point were also amazing here, but in the late afternoon sun they were cast in shadows.  It would have been even better to see them in the mid-day sun.  Regardless, I can’t complain.  It was a great hike and a great way to spend half a day.

Random Insect: Deer fly

Deer fly (Diptera: Tabanidae: Chrysops sp.) photographed 06/09/2012 at Pinckney State Recreation Area, Michigan.

While on the Losee Lake Trail at Pinckney State Recreation Area in Michigan, this deer fly (Diptera: Tabanidae: Chrysops sp.) landed on my arm.  Sensing the opportunity to get some cool photos, I pointed my camera at her just as she plunged her mouthparts into my skin.  It hurt a bit but I tolerated it long enough to take these pictures.

Deer fly (Diptera: Tabanidae: Chrysops sp.) photographed 06/09/2012 at Pinckney State Recreation Area, Michigan.

These flies are common pests of livestock and people.  If you’ve spent much time outdoors you’ve probably had to fight them off from time to time.

Deer fly (Diptera: Tabanidae: Chrysops sp.) photographed 06/09/2012 at Pinckney State Recreation Area, Michigan.

Only female tabanids feed on blood, which they use to fuel egg production.  Males are content with pollen and nectar.  Females lay their eggs near water, and are therefore found most often near marshes, lakes, and streams (Triplehorn and Johnson 2005).  They do get around a bit, however, and can be found away from water as well.  They’re powerful fliers and some species can fly for several miles (Triplehorn and Johnson 2005).

Literature cited:

Triplehorn, C.A. and N.F. Johnson.  2005.  Borror and DeLong’s Introduction to the Study of Insects.  Seventh Edition.  Thomson Brooks/Cole, Belmont, CA.

Random Plant: Fire on the mountain

Fire on the mountain (Euphorbia cyathophora, Euphorbiaceae) photographed 04/10/2012 on Matecumbe Key, Florida.

I came across this plant on Matecumbe Key in Florida a couple of months ago. I hadn’t got around to identifying it, but while thumbing through a field guide the other day I accidentally stumbled across it. It seems most commonly known as fire on the mountain (Euphorbia cyathophora, Euphorbiaceae), but has a host of other common names including wild poinsettia, dwarf poinsettia, false poinsettia, Mexican poinsettia, Mexican fire plant, and painted-leaf spurge.

This plant has leaves that are extremely variable in size and shape.  They can appear thin and grass-like as with this specimen, broad and fiddle-shaped, or anything in between. The red blazes are on the surfaces of young, bract-like leaves; they’re not part of the flowers. The flowers themselves are the inconspicuous green structures in the center.

Fire on the mountain (Euphorbia cyathophora, Euphorbiaceae) photographed 04/10/2012 on Matecumbe Key, Florida.

Native to the southeastern United States southward to northern South America, fire on the mountain has been introduced in many new areas as an ornamental. It spreads readily, however, and has since become invasive throughout the Pacific and southeast Asia.

Random Plant: Harlequin blueflag

South shore of Losee Lake. Photographed 06/09/2012 at Pinckney State Recreation Area, Michigan.

While hiking the Losee Lake Trail at the Pinckney State Recreation Area here in Michigan, I found a lot of harlequin blueflag (Iris versicolor, Iridaceae) growing along the water. The large, showy flowers of this native plant were definite attention-getters:

Harlequin blueflag (Iris versicolor, Iridaceae). Photographed 06/09/2012 at Pinckney State Recreation Area, Michigan.

Harlequin blueflag is more than just a pretty flower, however.  This plant grows dense root structures that excel at trapping and removing many pollutants from the soil. When planted in vegetative filter strips along waterways, it can greatly reduce the amount of pesticide runoff that can contaminate reservoirs and other bodies of water (Smith et al. 2008).  As a component of constructed wetland buffers, it can also help in the removal of fecal coliform bacteria and other contaminants (Zaimoglu 2006).

Literature cited:

Smith K.E., R.A. Putnam, C. Phaneuf, G.R. Lanza, O.P. Dhankher, and J.M. Clark. 2008. Selection of plants for optimization of vegetative filter strips treating runoff from turfgrass. Journal of Environmental Quality 37(5):1855-61.

Zaimoglu, Z. 2006. Treatment of campus wastewater by a pilot-scale constructed wetland utilizing Typha latifolia, Juncus acutus and Iris versicolor. Journal of Environmental Biology 27(2):293-298.

Serenity is a Trumpeter Swan at Isle Royale National Park

On 05/26/2012, my second day at Isle Royale National Park, I woke up at dawn to look for wildlife.  In the morning twilight I recorded this video of a trumpeter swan (Cygnus buccinator, Anatidae) at Lane Cove. This big bird swam within about 30 feet of me and seemed unconcerned with my presence.

Random Plant: Sassafras

Sassafras (Sassafras albidum, Lauraceae) photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Common throughout the eastern United States, sassafras (Sassafras albidum, Lauraceae) can be found in a variety of habitats. As a pioneer species (Immel 2001) these woody plants often thrive in disturbed areas along roads, fields, and forest openings. I often see young sassafras growing along woodland trails. Although common, it wasn’t until I visited Mammoth Cave National Park a few weeks ago that I finally took a picture of one.

Here in Michigan these plants are near the northern extent of their range and are often limited to shrubby growth. They grow as small to medium-sized trees in more southerly latitudes, and can reach ninety feet in height in the Great Smoky Mountains (Kershner et al. 2008).

Sassafras is pretty easy to identify thanks to the distinct three-lobed leaves. Single- and two-lobed leaves that look like mittens can also occur in fewer numbers. When crushed, the leaves give off a pungent spicy aroma.

For hundreds of years sassafras oil served a variety of culinary and medicinal uses (Immel 2001). In more recent time, one of the constituent compounds known as safrole has been found to be carcinogenic, and many trade groups have banned its use in foods and perfumes. Production and sale has also been controlled or banned by many governments because it’s used in the synthesis of the drug MDMA (ecstasy). The United States Drug Enforcement Administration lists it as a Schedule 1 controlled substance under federal law.

Literature cited:

Immel, D.L. 2001. Plant Guide:  Sassafras. United States Department of Agriculture Natural Resources Conservation Service.

Kershner, B., D. Mathews, G. Nelson, and R. Spellenberg. 2008. National Wildlife Federation Field Guide to Trees of North America. Sterling Publishing Company, Inc., New York, NY.

Loons and Lake Superior

Just before dusk I put my camera down on the rocky shore of Lane Cove at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan. It recorded the mournful calls of common loons (Gavia immer, Gaviidae) and the waters of Lake Superior lapping on the rocks. Recorded 05/25/2012.

Isle Royale National Park: Day 4/Epilogue

Continued from Isle Royale National Park: Day 3

Monday morning Jim and I were scheduled to leave Isle Royale on the seaplane at 11am. We woke up at the Rock Harbor campground, ate some breakfast, and packed our backpacks one last time. We headed to the seaplane dock on Tobin Harbor, and it was immediately apparent that the plane was going to be delayed again.

Foggy morning at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

When we arrived on Friday the plane had been delayed several hours for high winds. On this morning it was some thick fog that delayed our flight. We sat on the dock for a while, but the fog only got worse.

Foggy morning at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Our appointed departure time came and went, so we took a quick stroll back to the visitor’s center at Rock Harbor and asked if they heard from the pilot. He had told them it would be a few hours, so we had some time to kill. While we were down by the Rock Harbor dock the Queen from Copper Harbor, MI emerged from the fog to unload some passengers.

Isle Royale Queen IV at Rock Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

This ferry was only running twice a week during our visit. On that day only 36 people disembarked, and that gave us a pretty good idea how few people were on the island.

After wasting some time in the visitor’s center and store, we headed back to the seaplane dock. The fog was starting to lift as a breeze picked up and the sun started shining through:

Foggy morning at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Around this time a couple of friendly Canadian kayakers showed up at the dock. They had arrived on the ferry and were portaging their kayaks to Tobin Harbor to start a four-day trip. We had some entertaining conversation for a while as they ate their lunch and packed all their gear into their boats. They told us about their misadventures in the Yukon and Northwest Territories, and we touched on the politics and economics between our countries.  All the while humorous banter prevailed. As much as I enjoyed their company, I kept getting distracted by the views and the animals.

Foggy morning at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

As the fog lifted we saw some common loons (Gavia immer, Gaviidae) swimming around the nearby islands. After hearing their eerie calls so loudly on the first night, it was good to finally see some of them:

Common loon (Gavia immer, Gaviidae) at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

A stink bug (Pentatomidae) also paid me a visit:

Stink bug at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After a while our Canadian friends had their gear packed, said goodbye, and took off in their kayaks.

Canadian kayakers at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

As they departed we finally heard our seaplane arriving and in no time it was on the water and approaching the dock.

Seaplane approaching the dock at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Before we knew it we were on the plane and in the air.

Next-to-final view of Isle Royale. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After being immersed in the isolated wilderness of Isle Royale for four days, we looked back at the formidable island one last time.

Final view of Isle Royale. Photographed 05/28/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

I thought leaving was bittersweet. My clothes were dirty and damp, my knees and hips ached, and I had blisters on my feet. I had eaten little more than granola bars, sausage, crackers, and dehydrated dinners for days. I was ready to get into some clean, dry clothes, rest in a warm motel, and have a real meal.

By the time we got back to civilization, however, I was already missing the silence and solitude of Isle Royale. At the campgrounds we saw a few people, but as we hiked our 30 miles of trails we never passed a single person. We were alone with the trees, the birds, the squirrels, the hares, and somewhere, the moose. We never did see a moose on the island, but with fresh tracks and scat everywhere, we couldn’t help but feel like we were always right behind them.

Even though we covered 30 miles, there are about 160 miles of trails on Isle Royale. We saw less than 20% of the island in four days, and that’s not counting the shorelines and boat campgrounds accessible only by canoe or kayak.

Before we left for the island I read that Isle Royale has the highest rate of repeat visitors of any national park, and now I see why. Before my blisters even healed, I was ready to go back.

—————————–

For what it’s worth Isle Royale is only open from April to the end of October. Most people visit in July and August. Outside of July and August services and transportation are limited, but we opted for the end of May for several reasons. We figured it would be mild and not too warm or cold, and we were right. We knew it would rain at least a bit, but we came prepared. We knew the black flies and mosquitoes that can plague hikers during the summer wouldn’t be present in any great numbers. We also knew there would be very few people this early in the season. In the end, visiting at this time of year worked out about as well as we had hoped. Next time I might visit in September for the same benefits, but with the added bonuses of fall foliage and rutting moose that may present themselves more readily.

Isle Royale National Park: Day 3

Continued from Isle Royale National Park: Day 2

Gloomy morning at the Daisy Farm campground. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Sunday morning was gloomy and rainy as we headed east from the Daisy Farm campground. We had spent the previous two days hiking in relatively good weather, and the heavy rain was somewhat disheartening.

The author standing in front of a shelter at the rainy Daisy Farm campground. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

The eastern stretch of the Rock Harbor Trail was a bit treacherous in the foul weather. Tons of slick rock surfaces, tree branches, and water-polished stones littered the trail, providing ample opportunities to sprain an ankle or slip and fall. Water collected in countless deep pools, threatening to soak our feet or trip us up with unseen obstacles.

Jim on the rainy Rock Harbor Trail. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Despite the challenging trail and unpleasant weather, we were treated to a short visit with a snowshoe hare (Lepus americanus, Leporidae) in its brown summer coat. We had seen several of these before this point, but this particular one was more relaxed in our presence and allowed me to take a picture.

Showshoe hare (Lepus americanus, Leporidae) along the Rock Harbor Trail. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After several miles along the Rock Harbor Trail, we crossed over to the roughly parallel and much smoother Tobin Harbor Trail.

Tobin Harbor Trail. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

By this point the rain had stopped, and the easier trail allowed us to enjoy the scenery more.

Tobin Harbor, photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Along the way a number of common mergansers (Mergus merganser, Anatidae) swam along the harbor shore:

Pair of common mergansers (Mergus merganser, Anatidae). Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After covering eight rough and rainy miles in four hours, we were beat by the time we reached Rock Harbor. We dropped our packs in a wooden shelter, ate, and rested for a while. Before long, however, we were eager to get back out and see more. We decided to hike out to Scoville Point, about two miles east of Rock Harbor.

The author along Lake Superior on the Stoll Trail to Scoville Point. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

The bare rock was drying off in the wind, making the trek to this scenic point a little easier. The waves from Lake Superior battered the rocky coast here, creating a dramatic scene that made the hike worthwhile.

Scoville Point, photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Here there’s also a memorial to Albert Stoll, Jr., the person most responsible for getting the Isle Royale wilderness preserved as a national park:

Stoll Memorial at Scoville Point. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

The return hike back west presented more great views:

Lake Superior coast near Scoville Point. Photographed 05/27/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

By the time we returned to Rock Harbor we had completed almost twelve miles that day. Despite that cold wind off of Superior, that night I slept like a rock. The following day we would be heading back to civilization, but as with the trip out here the weather would again interfere.

Day 3 Summary:
1)  Daisy Farm to the Mount Franklin Trail via the Rock Harbor Trail (4.2 miles, minimal elevation change)
2)  Rock Harbor Trail to Tobin Harbor Trail via Mount Franklin Trail (0.5 miles, modest elevation change)
3)  Mount Franklin Trail to Rock Harbor via the Tobin Harbor Trail (3 miles, modest elevation change)
4)  Camp at Rock Harbor
5)  Hike to Scoville Point (4.2 miles, modest elevation change)
Total:   11.9 miles, modest elevation change

Continued with Isle Royale National Park: Day 4/Epilogue

Isle Royale National Park: Day 2

Continued from Isle Royale National Park: Day 1

Morning at Lane Cove. The red light from the morning sun faintly illuminated Sleeping Giant in Ontario, Canada. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

On Saturday morning the rain had stopped, but the wind off of Lake Superior at Lane Cove was brisk. I put on an extra layer and headed down the rocky shore alone.

Rocky shore along Lane Cove. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

The wet cobbles were slick, making progress a bit tricky. Most of the rocks on Isle Royale are basalt, members of the Portage Lake Lava series. These thick beds were formed by huge volumes of lava that spewed from a rift in this region almost 1.2 billion years ago. Over hundreds of millions of years this area was buried by younger sediment, only to be exposed again by uplift and erosion. In more recent geologic time several glacial periods worked to carve the rocks. The last ice sheets retreated around 10,000 years ago, leaving Isle Royale in its present state. The meltwater also left it surrounded by the massive Lake Superior, which itself has polished many of the shoreline rocks into smooth, round shapes.

Amygdaloidal basalt of the Portage Lake Volcanics along the shore at Lane Cove. Blackberry for scale. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

I stared at the rocks here for quite some time. Partly this was because they were really cool, and partly this was because I didn’t want to trip and fall. Before long I was distracted by something else. A trumpeter swan (Cygnus buccinator, Anatidae) approached from the distance, flying low over the water before splashing down nearby. I sat down to watch and it calmly swam past me, occasionally honking softly or dipping its head in the water for a snack.

Trumpeter swan (Cygnus buccinator, Anatidae) at Lane Cove. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Before long my friend Jim was awake and we got moving, somewhat eager to escape the cold wind off the lake. From Lane Cove we headed back towards Greenstone Ridge.

Lane Cove Trail. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

We soon came across more evidence of the moose on the island:  Giant hoofprints.

Moose track along the Lane Cove Trail. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Further evidence of moose was provided by young quaking aspen trees (Populus tremuloides, Salicaceae) that were growing in many of the forest openings. In some places the tender leaves and twigs were stripped by foraging moose.

Young quaking aspen tree (Populus tremuloides, Salicaceae) on the Lane Cove Trail. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

When we descended the approximately 400 feet from the Greenstone Ridge to Lane Cove the previous evening, we had little appreciation for the elevation change. Going back up that morning proved a little more challenging. Over the last half mile the trail was really steep.

Part of the Lane Cove Trail near the Greenstone Ridge. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Soon after we got back on the Greenstone Ridge Trail, we arrived at Mount Franklin. This was about 500 feet above our campsite at Lane Cove along Lake Superior. It was hard to believe less than two hours earlier we were at the water along the right side of this shot:

Overlooking Lane Cove from Mount Franklin. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Mount Franklin itself is a prominent, steep cliff that provides great views of the northeastern section of the island.

The author at Mount Franklin. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

As we continued west on Greenstone Ridge, the weather was warm and partly sunny. Many of the openings were filled with a variety of insects:

White butterfly photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Butterfly along Greenstone Ridge. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

We soon caught sight of our next waypoint:  The fire tower on top of Mount Ojibway. If you squint you can see it here:

Mount Ojibway fire tower. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After a while we finally got to the tower, and the views of the western reaches of the island were great. This would be the westernmost extent of our travel, however. The western reaches would have to wait for a future trip.

Looking west from the Mount Ojibway fire tower. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royal National Park.

Looking west from the Mount Ojibway fire tower. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royal National Park.

From here we headed south on the Mount Ojibway Trail toward the Daisy Farm Campground. After descending from Greenstone Ridge, the trail went back up over Ransom Hill before descending again.

Heading up Ransom Hill on the Mount Ojibway Trail. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

There were still more insects:

Ants scavenging a dead beetle. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After descending Ransom Hill, the trail leveled off as we approached Daisy Farm:

Mount Ojibway Trail near Daisy Farm. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

We had originally intended to push on to the Moskey Basin campground, but with heavy rain in the forecast we didn’t want to overextend ourselves.  After dropping our packs in a shelter, we headed down to the lakeshore to filter water:

Lake Superior shoreline near Daisy Farm. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

With ample daylight remaining, I made an exploratory hike down the Daisy Farm Trail while my friend Jim ventured down the Rock Harbor Trail toward Moskey Basin.  We were still intent on seeing a moose, and thought we could increase our chances by splitting up.  I didn’t see a moose, but the trail was still nice:

Part of the Daisy Farm Trail. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

I even stumbled across a jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum, Araceae):

Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum, Araceae), photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum, Araceae), photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Jim didn’t see a moose on his solo hike either, so we decided to head back up Ransom Hill to spot for them before dusk.  The vantage point we had gave views of open spots on Greenstone Ridge and the valley below.  We could even see the Mount Ojibway fire tower from here:

View of Greenstone Ridge and the Mount Ojibway fire tower from Ransom Hill. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Before long I got bored and started photographing the interesting plants at this spot:

Unknown plant on Ransom Hill. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Unknown plant on Ransom Hill. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Unknown plant on Ransom Hill. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Although we didn’t see a moose, on the way back to camp we came across an American red squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus, Sciuridae) chomping on some of the plants:

American red squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus, Sciuridae) near Ransom Hill. Photographed 05/26/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

We saw a ton of these on the island; they’re probably one of the most common mammals there.  Even when you don’t see them, you can frequently hear their shrill calls from the trees.

After getting to sleep, we were awoken around 3am by a pretty strong thunderstorm that lasted for over an hour.  The torrential rain made us glad we opted for one of the wooden shelters at this campground.  Although we managed to again fall asleep amid the thunder and lightning, the rain would still be coming down in the morning.

Day 2 Summary:
1)  Lane Cove Campground to Greenstone Ridge via the Lane Cove Trail (2.4 miles, about 400 feet of elevation gain)
2)  Lane Cove Trail to Mount Frankling via the Greenstone Ridge Trail (0.3 miles, about 100 feet of elevation gain)
3)  Mount Franklin to Mount Ojibway via the Greenstone Ridge Trail (2.5 miles, about 100 feet of elevation gain)
4)  Mount Ojibway to the Daisy Farm Campground via the Mount Ojibway Trail (1.7 miles, about 600 feet of elevation loss)
5)  Camp at Daisy Farm Campground
6)  Short hike up the Daisy Farm Trail (about 1 mile)
7)  Hike back up Ransom Hill on the Mount Ojibway Trail (about 1 mile)
Total:   8.9 miles, 600 feet of elevation gain, 600 feet of elevation loss

Continued with Isle Royale National Park: Day 3

Isle Royale National Park: Day 1

Continued from Isle Royale National Park: Prologue

On Friday we strapped on our 36-pound backpacks and headed to the Houghton County Memorial Airport for our 30-minute seaplane ride to Isle Royale National Park. As is often the case, transportation was delayed because of the weather. On that day high winds presented a challenge to safe travel. We were supposed to leave at 10am, but didn’t take off until about 3pm. Dave, the pilot with Royale Air, did a fine job handling the tricky wind conditions to get us there quickly and safely.

Approaching Isle Royale from the air. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Fresh off the seaplane at Tobin Harbor. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Once off the plane at Tobin Harbor we made a beeline for the Rock Harbor Lodge. We had reserved a water taxi to take us to the Hidden Lake dock at the east end of the island. Most visitors skip the eastern part of the island, and we thought it would be cool to visit this area first.

The author at the Hidden Lake dock. Once the water taxi departed, for the next four days we would be alone in the wilderness. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

With the seaplane delay we were well behind schedule to cover 8.4 miles and reach the Lane Cove Campground by dusk. Although keeping a healthy pace, we took in as much as possible along the way.

Hidden Lake, photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

The Lookout Louise Trail started out rather pleasant, covering some level ground around Hidden Lake. The wet soil was covered in places by boardwalks…

Jim Fischer examining the trees near Hidden Lake. Photographed 05/25/2012 at isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

…and by numerous plants like marsh marigolds (Caltha palustris, Ranunculaceae):

Marsh marigolds (Caltha palustris, Ranunculaceae) near Hidden Lake.  Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Cool fungi were also present:

Unknown fungus photographed 05/25/2012 at isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Before long the trail started gaining some elevation on the way up to Lookout Louise on the Greenstone Ridge. Over this mile-long segment there was about 300 feet of elevation gain.

The author on the Lookout Louise Trail. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

It wasn’t long before we saw the first evidence of the moose on the island:

Moose scat on the Lookout Louise Trail, photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park. Blackberry for scale. Over the next few days we would see dozens of such piles.

In addition to the marsh marigolds, there were other cool flowers along the trail like gaywings (Polygala paucifolia, Polygalaceae):

Gaywings (Polygala paucifolia, Polygalaceae) along the Lookout Louise Trail. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Occasional pine stands created dimly-lit tunnels to traverse along the way:

Lookout Louise Trail, photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Once we finally reached Lookout Louise, the view was worth the trek. In addition to the smaller surrounding islands, we could see Canada along the horizon:

View from Lookout Louise. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

From here the hike along the Greenstone Ridge was both relatively easy and beautiful. Marching along solid rock, we were surrounded by amazing lake views and northwoods trees like the abundant birch (Betula sp., Betulaceae):

Stately birch (Betula sp., Betulaceae) above the Greenstone Ridge and Lake Superior. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Interesting flowers continued along the way, like this rock harlequin (Capnoides sempervirens, Fumariaceae):

Rock harlequin (Capnoides sempervirens, Fumariaceae) photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

In the warm, sunny afternoon many insects were buzzing about:

Mourning cloak (Lepidoptera: Nymphalidae: Nymphalis antiopa) photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Stunning views were a mainstay of this eastern section of the Greenstone Ridge:

View from the eastern Greenstone Ridge Trail. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After a few miles we turned off the Greenstone Ridge Trail and onto the Lane Cove Trail towards our first campsite. After descending about 400 feet, the wet ground harbored numerous amphibians like this spring peeper (Pseudacris crucifer, Hylidae):

Spring peeper (Pseudacris crucifer, Hylidae) along the Lane Cove Trail. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

I also saw the largest American toad (Bufo americanus, Bufonidae) I had ever seen.  It must have been at least four inches from snout to tail:

American toad (Bufo americanus, Bufonidae) at least 4 inches from nose to tail. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

North American beaver (Castor canadensis, Castoridae) were also present along the creeks in this low area:

Beaver dam along the Lane Cove Trail. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus, Araceae) was common in the wetlands:

Skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus, Araceae) photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

After what seemed like forever we finally arrived at the Lane Cove Campground:

View from the Lane Cove Campground. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

The setting sun against the approaching rain clouds provided a dramatic view of the nearby islands and trees with Sleeping Giant in Ontario, Canada in the background:

View from the Lane Cove Campground at dusk. The nearby islands and trees were silhouetted against the setting sun behind Sleeping Giant in Ontario, Canada. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Thus concluded an impressive first day on Isle Royale. We fell asleep listening first to the eerie calls of loons and a lone moose, and then the patter of modest rainfall.  Although it rained a bit in the evening, our single-man tents and mummy bags kept us warm and dry, ready to face the next challenging day on the island.

A broader view of Sleeping Giant in Ontario, Canada against the setting sun. Photographed 05/25/2012 at Isle Royale National Park, Michigan.

Day 1 Summary:
1) Hidden Lake Dock to Lookout Louise via the Lookout Louise Trail (1 mile, almost 300 feet of elevation gain)
2) Lookout Louise to the Lane Cove Trail via the Greenstone Ridge Trail (4.8 miles, over 100 feet of elevation gain)
3) Greenstone Ridge Trail to Lane Cove Campground via the Lane Cove Trail (2.4 miles, about 400 feet of elevation loss)
4) Camp at Lane Cove Campground
Total: 8.4 miles, 400 feet of elevation gain, 400 feet of elevation loss

Continued with Isle Royale National Park: Day 2

Isle Royale National Park: Prologue

I’ve been absent for the past week because I was in the UP (upper peninsula) of Michigan with my friend Jim. Although we visited several places, the focus was on a four-day trip to Isle Royale National Park.

Isle Royale attracted us for a number of reasons. It’s one of the least-visited national parks because it’s so remote. Since it’s in the middle of infamous Lake Superior it’s accessible only by ferry, seaplane, or private boat. Even then, the volatile weather and unpredictable lake conditions can make getting there a challenge.

Once on the roughly 45 by 9 mile island the only modes of transport are by foot or by small boat. In order to preserve the pristine northwoods wilderness, no wheeled vehicles are allowed. 160 miles of rugged backpacking trails cross the island, linking primitive and isolated campgrounds often 5-10 miles apart. A handful of kayak/canoe campgrounds also dot the shores. Traveling the island requires a certain level of planning, fitness, self-reliance, and motivation. I found the challenge appealing.

In addition to the solid blanket of trees and other plants, wildlife abound there. Beaver, red squirrels, snowshoe hares, loons, ducks, geese, swans, and many other animals are present. Unlike the rest of the UP, no black bears or whitetail deer live there. Perhaps the best-known residents are the well-studied wolves and moose. The wolf population was at nine individuals when we visited, so we had no expectation of seeing any. I read there were about 400 moose, however, and we did our best to see one of those giant beasts.

This was by far the longest amount of time I’ve spent at a single national park. For that reason I decided to break this down day-by-day.

Continued with Isle Royale National Park: Day 1

Random Plant: Tulip tree

One of the tallest trees in eastern North America is the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera, Magnoliaceae).  These giants regularly exceed 150 feet, and some have been measured at nearly 200 feet.   In addition to their great height, these trees are also remarkably straight.

Although also called tulip poplars or yellow poplars, these trees are not poplars.  They’re in the magnolia family, while poplars are in the willow family (Salicaceae).  The “tulip” part of the name comes from the resemblance the distinct four-lobed leaves and flowers have to tulip blossoms:

Tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera. Magnoliaceae) photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera. Magnoliaceae) photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

When I was hiking at Mammoth Cave National Park last week there were hundreds of these flowers littering the trails.  Tulip trees seemed to be one of the dominant trees in that area.  I’ve also seen them on glacial morainic ridges here in southeast Michigan, but in fewer numbers. They definitely seem to have a preference for the coarse, well-drained soil of hilly areas.

More Turkeys Than a Thanksgiving Buffet

Wild turkey (Meleagris gallopavo, Phasianidae) photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

I often see wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo, Phasianidae) in wooded areas and open fields here in southeast Michigan. Until now I’ve never taken a decent photo of one. Here they tend to be very skittish, running away well before I can get close to them. Usually I’m left with only their tracks.

Wild turkey (Meleagris gallopavo, Phasianidae) photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Things were different when I visited Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky earlier this week. While driving along the park roads I saw perhaps fifty of these birds, and they didn’t seem afraid of cars or people. They were calmly foraging for food along the forest margins. These omnivores will eat seeds, nuts, berries, insects, and even small snakes and amphibians.

Wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo, Phasianidae) photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Wild turkeys are a great success story of conservation.  Subsistence hunting and habitat loss drove these large birds nearly to extinction early in the twentieth century. It’s estimated that only around 30,000 animals lived in North America in the early 1900s. Conservation efforts have since brought their numbers back up to around seven million.

Almost as amazing to me is how NOISY these birds can be. When one is walking nearby while I’m in the woods, I would almost swear a dinosaur is bearing down on me. They crash through the brush making much more racket than a 10-20 pound bird should. At first it seems like their noise would attract predators and harm their numbers. Through much of their range, however, large predators like wolves and cougars have been extirpated by humans. So one possibility is that they don’t need to be quiet to survive. Another possibility I suspect is that the noise is capable of startling predators, scaring them away rather than attracting them to potential prey.  I know it definitely startles me.

Random Plant: Sweetgum

Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua, Hamamelidaceae) photographed 05/15/2012 near Scottsburg, Indiana.

When visiting my wife’s family in southern Indiana this weekend, I noticed this tall, straight sweetgum tree (Liquidambar styraciflua, Hamamelidaceae) growing in her grandma’s yard. I’ve never seen one of these here in Michigan, and with good reason. The native range of this tree is restricted to lower elevations in the southeastern United States and parts of Central America.

Leaf of a sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua, Hamamelidaceae) photographed 05/15/2012 near Scottsburg, Indiana.

Sweetgum foliage has a pretty distinct appearance, with the pointed five-lobed leaves looking somewhat like stars. They’re glossy green in the spring and summer, and in the autumn they exhibit some exceptional fall color.

Fruit of a sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua, Hamamelidaceae) photographed 05/15/2012 near Scottsburg, Indiana. Quarter for scale.

These trees grow seeds within fruit known as “gumballs.” Hard, brown, and spiky when ripe, they can litter the ground in large numbers in the fall and winter. Stepping on them barefoot can be painful. Ask me how I know.

Leaves and fruit of a sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua, Hamamelidaceae) photographed 05/15/2012 near Scottsburg, Indiana.

Sweetgums flower in the early spring, and by now in mid-spring they’re already growing new gumballs. In the photo above you can see the softer, green gumballs growing amid the foliage, preparing to disperse the next generation of seeds.

Above and Below Mammoth Cave National Park

Mammoth Cave National Park is situated in an area of west-central Kentucky famous for its textbook karst topography. This landscape is characterized by sinkholes, springs, rivers that disappear below ground, and extensive caves. The formation of these features requires a little explanation.

Just below the surface here there are massive beds of limestone, deposited around 350 million years ago when this area was a shallow sea. Limestone is made up of the remains of shelled marine organisms, predominantly composed of the mineral calcite.

Over the last few million years this limestone has been eroded by water.  Rain water picks up carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and soil as it falls, forming weak carbonic acid. Over a great deal of time, this acid dissolves limestone. The combination of this chemical weathering along with with the physical weathering of moving water has carved the massive caves and sinkholes in this area.

This park encompasses the largest cave system on earth with nearly 400 mapped miles. Geologists estimate there could be about 600 more miles yet to be explored, and there are over 200 other caves disconnected from the main system. While the caves are the real draw here, the surface features are no less important to understanding the geology and ecology of this area.

I had reserved a spot on the 8:45 Historic Cave Tour but wanted to get there at dawn to hike some surface trails. My first stop was at Sloans Crossing Pond:

Sloans Crossing Pond photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

This pond is somewhat unusual in this karst region. Where limestone sits near the surface, water wears it down. Here, however, there are layers of impermeable sandstone and shale cap rocks above the limestone. In some places depressions in the sandstone collect water, creating these havens for aquatic organisms.

Sloans Crossing Pond photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

At the early hour of 7am I was spared the chatter of people and was deafened only by the sounds of numerous frogs and songbirds. More on that in a future post.

My second stop was at the Cedar Sink Trail, also delightfully devoid of people. In the nearly two-mile hike I was free of any sight of civilization, save for the modestly-groomed trail and intermittent stairs.

Cedar Sink Trail photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

After descending a couple of hundred feet, I reached Cedar Sink. Here the Hawkins-Logsdon river system emerges briefly from the limestone caverns below on its way to the Green River.

First it flows out from beneath the sandstone cap rock:

Cedar Sink photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Then it covers a short distance above ground:

Cedar Sink photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

It disappears again:

Cedar Sink photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

And finally pops up again briefly before disappearing for good until it emerges at the Green River:

Cedar Sink photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

This short foray into daylight introduces organic matter into the river, which in turn helps feed the subterranean ecosystem farther downstream. In the complete darkness of the underground stretches, this river hosts several blind fish, crayfish, and shrimp, among other organisms.

In this area the sandstone cap rock exhibits variable resistance to weathering, leading to the formation of recess caves like those found at Hocking Hills State Park in Ohio:

Recess cave near Cedar Sink. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Recess cave near Cedar Sink. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

After exploring some of the surface I entered Mammoth Cave itself. The heavy rain from the previous few days kept crowds to a minimum, and my group only contained about 20 people. During peak season in the summer, groups can have up to around 140.

The Historical Tour begins at the Historical Entrance, as do several other tours:

Historical Entrance to Mammoth Cave. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

This is only one of many entrances, and some of the other tours enter through other points. Although there are nearly 400 known miles in this cave system, the tours altogether only cover about 12 of them.  I can only imagine the remaining miles are too tight, too dangerous, or too sensitive to heavy traffic to be open to the public.

We soon entered a large chamber known as the Rotunda. The feeble electric lights and my camera couldn’t begin to capture the grandeur of this location:

The Rotunda within Mammoth Cave. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

A staircase led down to The Church, another chamber where a local Methodist church sometimes held service in the heat of summer during the 1800s. The caves are normally around a cool and constant 54F. In one spot the wall was blackened by the candles used during the services.

Stairs leading down to the Church. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Saltpeter mining was economically important here during the War of 1812.  With the British navy blockading nascent American shipping, our nation had to turn to domestic sources for war materiel like the saltpeter used in gunpowder.  Here slaves were exploited to extract thousands of pounds of the mineral with crude tools and their bare hands for the war effort.

Above the saltpeter mines. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

Slaves were also used to give tours later in the nineteenth century.  Stephen Bishop was probably the most famous slave guide.  He discovered more mileage of the cave system than any other person, and was the first person to traverse the Bottomless Pit:

The Bottomless Pit photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

After Niagara Falls, Mammoth Cave was the second-best known tourist destination in early America.  Nineteenth-century visitors often left their names and dates on the cave walls, created by the soot from candles.  This historical graffiti is treasured for its record of early Americana.  Modern etched graffiti is not so treasured, earning any would-be vandals a hefty fine.

Historical graffiti photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

After descending about 310 feet, the final ascent back to the surface was through Mammoth Dome via the Ruins of Karnak:

Ruins of Karnak photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

These columnar structures extended upward toward the surface, creating an impressive sight. After snaking back towards the Rotunda in what amounted to a big loop, we exited back out of the Historical Entrance:

Exiting the Historical Entrance. Photographed 05/14/2012 at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.

It’s interesting how little dripstone is present in this section of the cave. Since most of the area is capped by water-impermeable sandstone and shale, there’s little water available to drip through the cave and create stalactites, stalagmites, columns, curtains, and other formations. At the same time, the lack of water flow is what has helped make this the largest cave system on earth. The large caverns of much of the cave were formed by the underground rivers that once flowed through them, until they found lower elevations to run through. If water continued flowing through these caves, they would be destroyed by erosion and dripstone fill. The perfect storm of limestone capped by sandstone and shale is what has helped create this most impressive wonder of nature.

My modest photographs (or even professional photographs) really do this place no justice; you have to see it for yourself. I plan on visiting here again to see more of the caves. At least one section lacks the water-impermeable cap rock, allowing dripstone to develop. The Frozen Niagara formation near the New Entrance will be my first stop when I come back.

Random Plant: American beech revisited

American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

Early last spring I wrote about the winter foliage of young American beech trees (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae). A couple of weeks ago I came across a mature beech that was displaying a greater variety of characteristic traits. This tree demonstrated the smooth, silvery bark that is typical of this species:

Bark of an American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

Judging by the d.b.h. (diameter at breast height) and a table provided by Tubbs and Houston (1990), this tree was nearly 200 years old. Even then this tree was only middle-aged. American beeches are slow-growing and can live for up to 400 years (Tubbs and Houston 1990).

These beeches often sucker and grow thickets of younger shoots around their main trunks (Tubbs and Houston 1990). This individual demonstrated that growth:

Suckering shoots of an American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

The nascent leaves weren’t quite unfurled, still lacking the distinctive sharp points at the ends of the side veins. They were however showing the dense and parallel arrangement of the veins:

Nascent leaf of an American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

The leaves also had fine white hairs along the midveins:

Hairs along the leaf midvein of an American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

The ground was littered with the spiny seed husks from the previous year’s reproduction:

Seed husks of an American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

Surprisingly some of the seeds weren’t yet eaten by animals:

Seed of an American beech (Fagus grandifolia, Fagaceae) photographed 04/29/2012 near Sand Creek, Michigan.

These seeds are a favorite food of numerous animals, including rodents, deer, foxes, and many birds (Tubbs and Houston 1990).

Literature cited:

Tubbs CH, Houston DR. 1990. Fagus grandifolia Ehrh., American beech. In: Burns RM, Honkala BH, tech. coords. Silvics of North America.Volume 2, Hardwoods. Agric. Handbk. 654.Washington, DC: USDA Forest Service: 325–332.

Random Plant: Paurotis/Everglades palm

The main road through Everglades National Park ends at Flamingo, and outside the visitor center are a number of interesting palms. One that I found particularly striking was the Paurotis or Everglades palm (Acoelorrhaphe wrightii, Arecaceae).

Paurotis/Everglades palm (Acoelorrhaphe wrightii, Arecaceae) photographed 04/08/2012 at Everglades National Park, Florida.

While present in the Everglades, these palms are also widely cultivated for commercial and residential use as ornamentals in southern Florida.  Although they can be trimmed to look more like other palms, I think they’re more unique and captivating in their natural state.  These trees sucker and grow multiple, relatively short shoots.  The sharp, fan-like leaves are dense and create a bushy appearance:

Paurotis/Everglades palm (Acoelorrhaphe wrightii, Arecaceae) photographed 04/08/2012 at Everglades National Park, Florida.

For urban planting in subtropical zones (10-11) these trees provide an attractive contrast to the tall, slender Florida royal palms.

Florida Panther

When I visited Everglades National Park a few weeks ago, this was unsurprisingly the closest I came to a Florida panther (Puma concolor coryi, Felidae):

Florida panther (Puma concolor coryi, Felidae) crossing sign photographed 04/08/2012 at Everglades National Park, Florida.

With fewer than 100 individuals left in the wild, this distinct subspecies of cougar now inhabits less than 5% of its historical range in the deep south. These big cats were nearly hunted to extinction, feared and despised for their predatory nature. Although saved from the brink by conservation efforts they are still critically endangered. Along with threats from disease, alligators and other panthers, their greatest hazards are from human activity.  Habitat loss from agricultural and urban development, environmental toxins like mercury, and automobile collisions are responsible for many animal deaths.  Signs like these are both an effort to protect remaining animals and a reminder that there is still some semblance of wild nature to be found within our country.

Random Plant: Florida royal palm

Close to the eastern entrance of Everglades National Park is a location called Royal Palm. This spot hosts the trailheads for the Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo trails. Fittingly it also hosts a number of Florida royal palm trees (Roystonea elata or R. regia, Arecaceae):

Florida royal palms (Roystonea elata, Arecaceae) photographed 04/08/2012 at Everglades National Park, Florida.

Within the continental United States these trees are restricted to southern Florida. Their intolerance to cold prevents their spread (either natural or cultivated) farther north.

One notable feature that separates these palms from others is the long, bright green crownshaft just below the leaves:

Florida royal palm (Roystonea elata, Arecaceae) photographed 04/08/2012 at Everglades National Park, Florida.

These trees also grow to impressive heights of up to 100 feet, so they’re appealing for urban planting. Although native trees are present in the Everglades, they are also cultivated commercially. I saw a number of nurseries near Homestead with large stands of trees:

Florida royal palms (Roystonea elata, Arecaceae) photographed 04/09/2012 east of Homestead, Florida.

These palms are widely used as ornamentals in yards and along roadways. There were many boulevards in southern Florida lined with these stately palms:

Florida royal palms (Roystonea elata, Arecaceae) photographed 04/09/2012 near Homestead-Miami Speedway, Florida.

Some of these trees had conspicuous bulges along their trunks.  I suspect this is caused by relatively good and bad growing conditions during certain years.